Threading Your Serger Is A Pain
March 7, 2009
By David Trumble
Serger threading can be difficult. While ordinary sewing machines, use only two thread, sergers may use up to eight. Therefore it is much more challenging to thread than regular sewing machines.
Up to eight cones of thread are mounted behind the serger with a guide rack to lift the thread off the cones. Depending on the number of needles used (1-4), thread is drawn through the thread rack, down through thread guides, through the tension assembly and take up lever to the eye of the needle.
The rest of the threads are drawn up through the thread rack, down through thread guides, through the tension assemblies, and then through either the lower looper or upper looper. Caution: avoid tangling threads.
The mechanism moves the needle down through the fabric and beyond. The thread from the needles is drawn through the fabric. The lower looper picks up the needle threads and moves to the right. The upper looper picks up the needle thread and the lower looper thread and wraps it around the stitch finger. This process is repeated again and again forming overlocking stitches around the edge of the fabric which trail along behind as the seam moves through the sewing machine.
Improper threading creates calamity. Slight variations in threading occur from one serger to another, but the basics are essentially the same. Always read and follow the user manuals instructions precisely.
The major sewing machine distributors offer a line of sergers. You can find Brother Homelocks, Viking Huskylocks, and dozens of others. Most of these use similar threading processes, although hundreds of different models can have slight variations.
The first step in threading a serger is to lift the presser foot lever. This is the same as threading a ordinary sewing machine. When the presser foot is raised, it releases the tension assembly pressure. Next, draw the thread to be used in the upper looper up and over the thread rack. Check your users manual for details on wrapping the thread through the guides and follow the threading down to the top of the serger.
The same technique used to thread a ordinary sewing machine is used to thread the tension assemblies on a serger. The biggest difference is that there are several to thread. Traditional sergers used individually surface mounted tensions, but some sergers today encase the actual tension assembly in the front serger cover. In the latter case, you will see a groove for the thread and a dial for adjustment. It is vital that the thread slide between the tension discs on the tension assembly.
Inside the tension assembly are two round metal discs that are designed to press against each other with the thread between them. Make sure the thread has the proper amount of resistance when the presser foot is down.
Since serger tensions are so often a problem, double check and triple check the threading of each tension assembly. Too often thread (can|may|will travel along the ridgeof the tension discs. Result is little or no real tension even if it looks like the tension assembly is threaded.
After drawing the thread through the tension discs, continue threading through additional thread guides. Carefully follow the user manuals instructions for proper order. Unless a serger is threaded in proper order, the serger will not work properly. In most cases, thread the upper looper first, then the lower looper, and finally the needles. It has to be done perfectly every time. No mistakes.
Needles are the last things threaded. To do so make sure to thread all of the guides and take up lever leading to the needles. Since there are often more than one needle, it can be awkward to thread them without use of tweezers of serger needle threader.
When you complete the threading process, examine the thread lines for any irregularities. Examine the tensions by tugging a bit on each thread first with the presser foot up and then with it down. There should be very little drag when it is up, and significant resistance when it is down.
If a needle breaks, unthread the entire machine, and rethread in proper order. If you need to change colors or thread spools, cut the thread just above the thread cone. After setting the cone in place, tie the new thread to the original thread using a very small knot. Gently advance the set of threads by slowly serging or by rotating the hand wheel until the tie off has passed beyond the thread finger. Take special care when the knot reaches it guide hole. This technique may be used for all or any one of the threads including needles and loopers.
Rethreading is the first course of action when serger stitches mess up. There are many possible reasons that threads break and stitches jam up. Examine the thread line for anything that might cause the problems, but essentially your first step is to rethread.
There is an exception to this threading system in the advanced jet air threading system of the Baby Lock sewing machine. Baby Lock originated the home serger in 1964 and has led the market with advances and features unparalleled by any other brand. The Baby Lock Imagine and Evolve sergers use an advanced devices that thread the serger by a simple press of a lever. They use an advance thread management system that makes traditional tensions obsolete. They may also be threaded in any order. If a thread breaks, it is unnecessary to rethread the machine.
Up to eight cones of thread are mounted behind the serger with a guide rack to lift the thread off the cones. Depending on the number of needles used (1-4), thread is drawn through the thread rack, down through thread guides, through the tension assembly and take up lever to the eye of the needle.
The rest of the threads are drawn up through the thread rack, down through thread guides, through the tension assemblies, and then through either the lower looper or upper looper. Caution: avoid tangling threads.
The mechanism moves the needle down through the fabric and beyond. The thread from the needles is drawn through the fabric. The lower looper picks up the needle threads and moves to the right. The upper looper picks up the needle thread and the lower looper thread and wraps it around the stitch finger. This process is repeated again and again forming overlocking stitches around the edge of the fabric which trail along behind as the seam moves through the sewing machine.
Improper threading creates calamity. Slight variations in threading occur from one serger to another, but the basics are essentially the same. Always read and follow the user manuals instructions precisely.
The major sewing machine distributors offer a line of sergers. You can find Brother Homelocks, Viking Huskylocks, and dozens of others. Most of these use similar threading processes, although hundreds of different models can have slight variations.
The first step in threading a serger is to lift the presser foot lever. This is the same as threading a ordinary sewing machine. When the presser foot is raised, it releases the tension assembly pressure. Next, draw the thread to be used in the upper looper up and over the thread rack. Check your users manual for details on wrapping the thread through the guides and follow the threading down to the top of the serger.
The same technique used to thread a ordinary sewing machine is used to thread the tension assemblies on a serger. The biggest difference is that there are several to thread. Traditional sergers used individually surface mounted tensions, but some sergers today encase the actual tension assembly in the front serger cover. In the latter case, you will see a groove for the thread and a dial for adjustment. It is vital that the thread slide between the tension discs on the tension assembly.
Inside the tension assembly are two round metal discs that are designed to press against each other with the thread between them. Make sure the thread has the proper amount of resistance when the presser foot is down.
Since serger tensions are so often a problem, double check and triple check the threading of each tension assembly. Too often thread (can|may|will travel along the ridgeof the tension discs. Result is little or no real tension even if it looks like the tension assembly is threaded.
After drawing the thread through the tension discs, continue threading through additional thread guides. Carefully follow the user manuals instructions for proper order. Unless a serger is threaded in proper order, the serger will not work properly. In most cases, thread the upper looper first, then the lower looper, and finally the needles. It has to be done perfectly every time. No mistakes.
Needles are the last things threaded. To do so make sure to thread all of the guides and take up lever leading to the needles. Since there are often more than one needle, it can be awkward to thread them without use of tweezers of serger needle threader.
When you complete the threading process, examine the thread lines for any irregularities. Examine the tensions by tugging a bit on each thread first with the presser foot up and then with it down. There should be very little drag when it is up, and significant resistance when it is down.
If a needle breaks, unthread the entire machine, and rethread in proper order. If you need to change colors or thread spools, cut the thread just above the thread cone. After setting the cone in place, tie the new thread to the original thread using a very small knot. Gently advance the set of threads by slowly serging or by rotating the hand wheel until the tie off has passed beyond the thread finger. Take special care when the knot reaches it guide hole. This technique may be used for all or any one of the threads including needles and loopers.
Rethreading is the first course of action when serger stitches mess up. There are many possible reasons that threads break and stitches jam up. Examine the thread line for anything that might cause the problems, but essentially your first step is to rethread.
There is an exception to this threading system in the advanced jet air threading system of the Baby Lock sewing machine. Baby Lock originated the home serger in 1964 and has led the market with advances and features unparalleled by any other brand. The Baby Lock Imagine and Evolve sergers use an advanced devices that thread the serger by a simple press of a lever. They use an advance thread management system that makes traditional tensions obsolete. They may also be threaded in any order. If a thread breaks, it is unnecessary to rethread the machine.
About the Author:
Discoverhow to repair a sewing machine from author David Trumble's Sewing machine repair book series. Download a copy of his free beginner's course too.
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